Brown Butter, How Come You Taste So Good?

posted July 19, 2005

by Rebecca Michaels

http://cooking.cdkitchen.com/TheSweetLowdown/128.html

One wouldn't think that purposefully burning butter could be one of the tastiest things imaginable. Beurre noisette literally means 'hazelnut butter' but this is actually a misnomer. Also called brown butter, this is butter that has been cooked over heat until the milk solids burn and the result is a light hazelnut colored butter that has a distinctive and complex flavor.

Brown butter has a lovely nutty taste that can be used in myriad ways to perk up an existing recipe using regular butter, or used specifically for such things as poisson à la meunière, fish prepared with brown butter and white wine, or beurre noir, a sauce made with very well-done brown butter and a touch of vinegar.

Using brown butter is quite popular in many restaurants these days. But it has remained a 'chefs only' technique, which is silly because it is one of the easiest and most versatile things to make in the kitchen. It can be used in lots of sauces, as a condiment, and in many dessert preparations. Basically, anywhere you use butter and would like a more concentrated, nutty, sophisticated flavor, you can use brown butter instead. I particularly like the brown butter taste with fruit.

Brown butter is easy to make. You just need to keep an eye on it or you will end up with a mess and an extremely scorched pan. Cut up one pound of cold unsalted butter and place it in a cold (not preheated) saucepan. Simmer over medium heat. The mixture will melt, and then the milk solids will create a foam on top and then will sink to the bottom of the pan. They will burn somewhat so be prepared to use a little elbow grease on the pan once you're finished. The butter will bubble and gurgle and continue to foam. Keep the heat as low as possible while still maintaining a simmer.

The butter will begin to brown and your kitchen will start to smell like pancakes. Be careful--it can quickly go from brown to black. Once the foam is brown, take it off the heat and allow it to cool for 10 minutes. Pour through a cheesecloth, a coffee filter, or a fine mesh strainer into a heatproof container. Once cool, transfer it to an airtight container and you can keep it for a couple of weeks in the fridge.

Use as you would use butter in anything you want to give a little extra complexity too. Mashed potatoes are a wonderful way to use brown butter. Give fresh steamed veggies a little kick with a small amount of brown butter and some kosher salt and pepper. You can even use it as an interesting alternative to olive oil or butter in your breadbasket. Try it in both sweet and savory dishes. The difference in flavor might be subtle, but it will add that extra je ne sais quois that only beurre noisette can give.

Brown Butter Fruit Tart Filling Recipe
http://www.cdkitchen.com/

Serves/Makes: 8
Ready in: 30-60 minutes

* 3 eggs
* 1/2 cup brown sugar
* 2 tablespoons sugar PLUS
* 1 teaspoon sugar
* 1/2 teaspoon salt
* 1 tablespoon vanilla, fruit liquor, or brandy
* 1 tablespoon flour
* 5 ounces brown butter
* 1 Tart shell
* Fresh or frozen fruit

Lightly whisk eggs in medium sized bowl. Whisk in sugars, salt and vanilla.

Stir in flour. Mixture will be slightly lumpy. Slowly pour brown butter into mixture, whisking constantly until fully incorporated.

Fill a pre-baked tart shell approximately 1/3 of the way full with brown butter. Place fruit in the shell in any fashion you choose. Just remember that fruit shrinks, so don't be afraid to overstuff the tart shell with fruit. If the brown butter starts getting too close to the top edge of the shell, simply siphon some off.

While it bakes, it will puff somewhat and if filled too high it may spill over and you will have trouble getting the shell out of the pan and end up with a messy looking tart.

Bake for 25-60 minutes depending on the size of the tart and the type of fruit (peaches, apples and plums will take longer to cook than raspberries and blueberries). You will know that the tart is cooked through when you take a knife and gently cut into the tart and the brown butter filling looks puffed and dry.

Glaze the tart with strained apricot jam or dust with powdered sugar.