Hams and Hots, Grills and Pots

posted May 29, 2006
  by Lauren Braun Costello, The Competent Cook

Memorial Day is the perfect occasion to cook a classic American meal: hamburgers and hot dogs, or as my cousin Michael would say, “hams and hots.” There are literally hundreds of ways to season hamburger meat and dozens of ways to garnish the hamburger bun. Hot dogs are perhaps a little less versatile, but there is certainly more to a hotdog than ketchup and mustard. Cooking these two items is also a source of debate. It may seem like a grill is the obvious choice for both, but a pot is actually a much better way to make a hot dog . . . at least for part of the cooking process.

Hot Dog Do It
Most of us either grill or boil our franks. Have you ever considered doing both? I know this may seem like a monumental waste of time, but I assure you it is well worth it. Once you try this two-step method you will never go back. Whether you enjoy regular hot dogs, knockwurst or foot-longs, the boil-then-grill technique will make your hot dog healthier and tastier.

Run a knife around each frankfurter, making a spiral cut top to bottom around the body, and then add to boiling water. When the franks cook in the water, the spirals open up, releasing some of the fat and rendering the meat more tender. Remove the franks from the water and place them on a hot grill, cooking them until they are charred and crisp, yet tender as can be.

Toppings for a hot dog can range from diced raw onion to steamy hot beef chili. Sauerkraut is the most classic addition to a frankfurter, stemming from its German roots (frankfurters come from Frankfurt). This pickled cabbage can be served warm or cold, adding a tart crunch to a tender dog and toasty bun. Mustards in my opinion are a must. I prefer sweet hot mustard, but spicy brown deli mustard is also appropriate. Bright yellow mustard is not a flavor I prefer, but very popular indeed. Sweet relish or bread and butter pickles make the top of my list. Stewed or caramelized onions are divine (on anything, for that matter). Celery salt is a sensational flavor enhancer for a hot dog. Ketchup, however, is best reserved for the burgers, I think.

Hamburger Helper
There is nothing more satisfying than a grilled, juicy beef burger on a bun with all the fixings. Even the most unadulterated burger--a plain unseasoned beef patty--cooked over an open flame can be so darn good. Meat selection is essential. Ground beef that is more than 90% lean may be too lean for a juicy burger, especially if you like your burger medium to well done. 80-85% lean is ideal for a grilled hamburger. Just the other day my husband and I ordered hamburgers from an organic, healthful burger joint. While I have no doubt this was a less fattening burger, it was not particularly moist or flavorful. If you are going to make a burger, remember that a little bit of fat is your friend.

There are, however, many ways to make a burger more flavorful and juicy than simply the meat you choose. Salt and pepper are a basic seasoning for any meat. Adding ketchup, barbecue sauce or Worcestershire to the meat will add moisture and flavor. Crumbled blue cheese lends a sophisticated flavor and unexpected ooze to a hamburger patty. Liquid smoke (for those non-purists who would even consider going there) is a fun and easy way to add a hickory wood chip accent. Any flavor you enjoy on top of the burger can go inside--onions, tomatoes, crumbled bacon and cheese. There is really no limit to how creative and decadent you can be. At DB Bistro in New York, for example, they serve a hamburger filled with short ribs and foie gras!

Topping a burger is even more fun than filling it. Ketchup, lettuce, tomato, onions and pickles are traditional options. Cheese, of course, is a perfect match. Some people like mayonnaise, while others like mustard. Fried eggs, chili, and bacon are good protein picks. While I enjoy a toasted bun, there are lots of ways to hold a burger. A toasted English muffin is delicious, as is toasted rye bread (one of the key ingredients in a patty melt). Lettuce leaves are an appropriate choice for those carb-counters.

Experimenting with flavors and techniques for even the most basic dishes like “hams and hots” will make you a more competent cook.

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