Eggspert Advice, Part II

posted August 22, 2005

by Lauren Braun Costello

http://cooking.cdkitchen.com/TheCompetentCook/147.html

Last week I gave an overview of eggs in Eggspert Advice: Part I. This week I would like to share some specific techniques for scrambling eggs and making omelets. Even though scrambled eggs and omelets are probably the two most common ways we prepare eggs, so many people do not actually follow the proper methods. The following techniques will make fluffy, tender and tasty eggs.

The Scramble Preamble
Scrambling eggs is so simple--perhaps too simple, and therefore often overlooked as an invaluable skill to master. This point was made clear to me in culinary school when a chef instructor reminded my class that when he was a young cook in France, he and his colleagues were often asked to demonstrate their competence in an interview by making oeufs brouillés (scrambled eggs) or roast chicken. The basics are so very important and should not be forgotten.

To scramble two eggs, break two eggs in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add a tablespoon heavy cream or milk to make the eggs more tender (adding this dairy dilutes the protein). Mix with a fork, but do not overbeat the eggs; the goal is to combine them thoroughly, not to incorporate air. Heat one teaspoon butter in a non-stick pan over medium heat. Once the pan is hot and the butter begins to bubble, pour the eggs into the pan and lower the heat. Cook the eggs, stirring constantly, until the eggs are soft, thick and creamy. Do not overcook the eggs so they are dry and tough. Scrambled eggs should be moist, even when well done.

Scrambled Eggs Are Omelets Too
So often people tell me that they have trouble making omelets. "I put the mixed eggs in the pan . The bottom cooks, but I can’t get the top to ever cook." Classic mistake. An omelet is made from scrambled eggs. Yes, you scramble the eggs, then set the omelet.

The French prefer their omelets rolled, as opposed to flat, and generally should have a completely smooth, unbrowned surface while being slightly runny in the middle. In my opinion, this is the very best way to make an omelet. Unlike scrambled eggs, the egg mixture for an omelet generally has no added dairy. But you certainly can add cream or milk, if you like. Just remember to cook omelets to order; they cannot be held successfully.

To make a rolled omelet, break three eggs into a bowl, season with salt and pepper, and mix well with a fork. Heat a non-stick 8-inch skillet over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon butter. When the butter foams, add the eggs and let the mixture set for about 30 seconds. Then stir continuously with a fork (ideally wooden, if you have one) until the eggs are at a runny scramble stage. Spread the eggs out evenly over the surface of the pan, stop stirring and let them set over low heat (The point at which you stop stirring is the key to having a smooth omelet without any brown coloring).

Place 1/4 cup of filling--cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms, ham, caramelized onions--in the middle of the omelet. Fold the edge of the omelet over into itself, tilt the pan from the handle and lightly tap the handle so that the omelet moves up from the pan. Form the omelet with a fork. Roll the omelet onto a warm plate seam-side down.

Eggspert Advice Part 3?
Is there another egg topic you want to read more about on CDKitchen.com? Are there any questions you have about eggs in general that I have not yet addressed? Use the comment form below to let me know!