Hot and Cold Front

posted September 4, 2005
  by Amy Powell, Real Meals In Minutes

September is the time of year when two worlds collide; we say goodbye to the waning days of summer and welcome the brisk months of autumn. This transition is not always smooth, but it never ceases to excite. Cool, dewy mornings can evolve into long warm evenings. Clear skies can quickly turn ominous with the crash of thunderstorms overhead.

Like a warm front meeting a cold front and the drama that ensues, so our world of food benefits from the clashing of opposites. Typically, as cooks we strive to create dishes that entice our palates with surprising mixtures of textures and seasoning. It is through variety that we stay creative in the kitchen and keep our diners and ourselves always interested in the food we are eating.

This is most easily accomplished through the classic mixture of tastes: sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami (an earthen taste found especially in aged cheese and protein-rich foods). Now, that is not to say we should be indulging in pickles and ice cream on a daily basis. But who hasn't at some point enjoyed a dish of Sweet and Sour Chicken or a handful of chocolate covered pretzels?

Our mouths also crave a variety of textures in the course of a meal. Unless you have dentures, for example, there is no reason that every item on a plate should be soft. Even if it just the time-tested burger and fries, would the burger taste as good if the fries were as soft as its pillowy bun? Crisp, steamed vegetables cooked just until al dente pair well with stewed meats while a mound of soft sautéed spinach is the perfect foil for the salty crisp skin of a pan fried fillet of fish.

Half of the enjoyment of a real meal comes before you have even picked up your fork. Therefore, variety in cooking also applies to the colors we see on a plate. A dish of meat and potatoes, although not terribly exciting, can be made more so simply by mixing some bright green chopped chives with the mashed potatoes and adding a side of oven roasted tomatoes for a splash of red. Not only will the plate look more appealing, but the instant depth of flavor will make the dish just as interesting to eat as it is to look at. At the very least, never underestimate the power of a simple garnish to liven up a bland looking dish. A sprig of dill on potato soup can turn an Irishman's famine staple into a restaurant worthy masterpiece.

Elsewhere in the world, top chefs are pushing experimentation with textures to a new level. Formerly heavy sauces have been transformed into ethereal foams. Soup, drunk from a vial, can begin ice cold on the tongue and finish warm as it slides down the throat. For the home cook, no one is expecting miracles, but that doesn't mean we're not free to try a little something different on occasion.

As these days tease us with the last hot breath of summer before the cool breeze of fall, I suggest something as simple as a cold soup and a hot sandwich for an evening supper. A garnish of dill with a sprinkle of chopped mint on a chilled cucumber soup gives a more intense flavor to an otherwise pale puree. Combine a hot sliced lamb sandwich with grilled onions, chunky balsamic tomatoes, and feta, and the wide array of flavors alone is sure to provide thundering thrills for your palate.


Chilled Cucumber Yogurt Soup Recipe
http://www.cdkitchen.com/


Serves/Makes: 4
Ready in: < 30 minutes

* 3 cucumbers, peeled, seeds scooped out
* 2 cloves garlic, peeled
* 1 cup Greek yogurt
* 4 tablespoons roughly chopped mint
* 4 tablespoons roughly chopped dill
* 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
* 1 tablespoon olive oil
* Salt and Pepper to taste

Place first three ingredients in a blender or food processor. Pulse until smooth. Add herbs, vinegar and olive oil and blend until smooth.

Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Chill in refrigerator until ready to serve. Garnish with mint and dill sprigs.


Hot Lamb Sandwich with Chunky Balsamic Tomatoes Recipe
http://www.cdkitchen.com/


Serves/Makes: 4
Ready in: < 30 minutes

* Oil
* 1 pound boneless center cut lamb steaks
* Salt and pepper
* 1 red onion, thinly sliced in rounds
* 1/2 pound vine ripened tomatoes
* Balsamic vinegar
* Olive oil
* 10 Basil leaves, finely sliced
* Salt and Pepper
* 1/4 pound Feta cheese, crumbled
* 1 French baguette

Preheat indoor grill pan (or large saute pan) over medium-high heat. Brush with oil.

Season steaks on both sides with salt and pepper. When grill is smoking hot, add steaks to pan, arrange onion slices around. Grill steaks until medium-rare, about 4-5 minutes per side.

Meanwhile also grill onions, flipping once, until caramelized and softened then remove from heat. Remove steaks from grill when cooked to desired doneness and let rest while finishing the assembly of the sandwiches.

While steaks are cooking, make the chunky tomato salad. Cut tomatoes in half horizontally and squeeze to discard seeds. Chop tomatoes roughly into smallish but bite-sized pieces.

In bowl, splash tomatoes with balsamic and drizzle with olive oil. Toss lightly with salt and pepper to taste along with basil. Set aside until sandwich assembly.

While steaks are resting, but baguettes into four pieces and slice in half horizontally. Toast cut side down on grill.

To assemble, thinly slice the lamb and divide among sandwiches. Top with tomatoes, grilled onions and feta. Serve immediately.

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